Style Guide How should a knitted sweater fit

What is a sweater?

A sweater has a few aliases that you might be more familiar with depending on where you live such as jumper, pullover or a jersey. It can be summarized as a piece of clothing with typically long sleeves made of knitted or crocheted material that covers the upper body. Sweaters can vary widely in style from turtlenecks to vee necks, but they typically are all worn for their casual warmth and their ability to layer with in the wintertime.

How should a sweater fit?

You’d expect sweater shopping to be relatively straightforward seeing as it’s something you slip over your head, there isn’t buttons and fastenings to worry about and they are usually made in soft fabrics such as cotton and wool. The truth is, there is a science to the fit of the humble sweater and with this guide we will aim to explain this. One of the biggest favours you can do for yourself, and your personal style is to work out your body shape and wear clothes to both fit and flatter it. Clothing, by nature, is not a ‘one size fits all’; a fact we have all discovered while shopping when something fits you beautifully in one shop, to either fall off you or squeeze you in the next shop. Our bodies are all shaped differently and rightly so; a world where everyone looked the same would be a bit boring, wouldn’t it? The fit of a sweater is no exception. In fact, when a sweater fits correctly, it’s one of the most flattering items you can wear. However, it is easy to get it wrong and that’s where our handy guide comes in. To arrive at how should a sweater fit, we will use the goldilocks formula: how a sweater fits when its too big, too small and finally when its… just right.

When a Sweater is too big

Aside from intentionally oversized sweaters on the market, a sweater that is too big for you will detract from the style and structure a sweater was intended for. It is always tempting to buy big, especially for those of us who have areas we would like to hide. The issue with buying big is that you tend to lose definition in other areas; areas which serve to give shape and form to your aforementioned body type. For instance, when you opt for a sweater that is too big, your shoulders, arms and chest area also lose their definition.

Lets explore, part by part, how to tell your jumper fit is too big:

Shoulders – an easy way to tell your sweater is the wrong size is when the shoulder seam sags over the end of your shoulder. When choosing a sweater, makes sure the shoulder seam sits directly as the tip of your shoulder bone. Note: some sweaters have raglans sleeves (no shoulder seam); in this case, just make sure there isn’t excess fabric hanging off your shoulder.

Arms – When you buy a sweater that is too big, the arm hole ends up gaping and causing fabric to bunch down the arm. Arms that are too long will cause the cuff to be bulky with excessive fabric. Aside from the aesthetic, this will also irritate you when you wear your sweater under a jacket.

Collar – The neck of your sweater is another place that shouldn’t be too loose. Aim for fairly narrow, enough for it to still be comfortable but without showing too much of the shirt, T shirt or skin underneath. You should be able to comfortably pull your sweater over your head, and leave a little room for the collar of a button up shirt underneath. If you can see the shoulders or beginning of the back panel of the shirt, the hole is too wide. For V-neck sweaters, try and avoid a vee neck that is too low for you; think 1 or 2 buttons at most.

Chest – You might find when trying on sweaters that the chest area is the roomiest part, this is because most sweaters were designed with wearing a shirt in mind. A little extra space in the chest is helpful for that reason. A sweater that is too big in the chest, will have a knock on effect in the arms, wrists and armpits. As above, tell tale signs of a incorrectly sized sweater is bellowing fabric into the arms and cuff, originating froma chest that is too wide. The sweater will slouch at the chest and at the underarm, which leaves the wearer looking a bit deflated.

Length – a sweater that is too big will be too long in the body and this can be defined by sitting too low – well below the hips. This causes the extra fabric to pool and bulge at the sides and the unfortunate result of this is that you end up with a larger appearance when a good fit actually makes you look slimmer. Ideally, a sweater should sit just below the belt line. Remember your sweater will move and lift throughout the day (you never walk around with it pulled taught) therefore it is worthwhile taking this into account in the changing rooms. Lift your arms up as though reaching for something on a shelf, to check the hem sits as it should.

When a sweater is too small

Firstly, it’s important to make a distinction between a slim fit sweater and one that’s too small. No matter how a jumper is cut, slim or otherwise, there should be between 2.5-5cm (1-2inches) of loose fabric, either side of the body. 2.5cm is about right for a slim fit. Aside from the restrictive feel, a sweater that is too small will have the opposite effect of flattering your body. Clinging to areas and pulling the sweater out of shape, will cause the sweater to look out of sorts on any frame.

Lets look at some of the ways to tell your sweater is too small for you:

Shoulders – when a sweater is too small for the wearer, the first place it shows is in the shoulder. With too much surface area and not enough fabric, the sweater neckline is distorted out of shape. This is even more apparent on a V- neck sweater where the opening will be pulled in different directions rather than naturally sitting flat.

Arms – the tell-tale sign of a ‘too small’ sweater? The armpit wrinkles that come with the arm holes being too small. In fact, when the fabric is pinching under the arms, this makes for an extremely restrictive and uncomfortable wear. Sweater arms that are too short will sit back on the wrist, exposing your watch but not in a good way. The result of which will throw your proportions out of whack, something that can be easily avoided by picking a better fitting sweater.

Chest – A sweater that fits too tight on the chest will not only throw off the whole alignment of the sweater but will not allow for a good fitting layer underneath. The reason for leaving 1-2 inches of extra material at your chest area is to ensure you can comfortably wear a shirt or t-shirt underneath and it not only be able to be smooth and flat but also allow you to move and reach your arms up without feeling like you are wearing a straight jacket.

Length – As before it’s worth remembering when trying on a sweater that during any given day, walking, bending and reaching will make your sweater ride up. If your sweater is too small from the get go, this leaves you open to baring your midriff or back when moving around. There’s nothing wrong with a bit of skin, but worth noting when you try on a sweater for size.

When a sweater fits just right

To rec-cap, lets look at how a sweater should look and feel if it is the perfect fit.

Shoulders – The perfect fitting sweater will have its shoulder seam finishing exactly at the shoulder joint, where the shoulder bone ends even if the shoulder muscle extends further. In a raglan sleeved sweater where the seam runs from neck to arm pit, the seam will run flat in a diagonal line to the underarm and there will not be an overhang of fabric following the seam.

Arms - Correctly fitting sweaters will have neat, well defined sleeves with no tension lines or puckering around the armpit area. The right sweater will feel free and flexible around the arms, allowing for a full range of movement without tugging at the back and the fabric will finish neatly at the wrist. Ideally, your cuff length will show just the right enough of cuff and wrist watch.

Neck – The neckline should lie neat and flat with no visible tension or be uncomfortably hugging the neck. A V neck should be wide enough to tuck the points of a collar just inside and deep enough to show one or two buttons at most.

Chest – The fabric across the chest of a well fitting sweater will sit smooth without puckering. It will comfortably allow your under layer to lie smoothly underneath and it will feel unrestrictive when you move your arms around.

Length – The perfect length is no more than 4cm below the belt line and the hem should sit nice and flat around you. A little extra fabric above the tapered hem is normal for that cut of sweater, but having folds of extra fabric at the hip is indicative of a sweater being too big. Too small and it will hug your hips and look out of sorts. Think flat or a little gathered material for the perfect fit. So there you have it, how to tell your sweater fits you. Of course the main goal is for you to feel comfortable in what you are wearing, both in how it feels and moves and how you outwardly look. The outfit you choose to put on each morning has a huge impact on how you feel inside and the confidence you project, so finding clothing you feel and look good in is hugely beneficial to your wellbeing. Its worth noting that even the best dressers had to learn how to do so, through finding what worked and what didn’t, so the main thing is to not be discouraged when you don’t find your perfect sweater straight away. It’s equally as important to not be swayed by the tides of fashion in picking styles that do nothing for you. When you find a style that works for you, have the confidence to stick with it and own it as yours. As Ralph Lauren once said “Style is very personal. It has nothing to do with fashion. Fashion is over quickly. Style is forever.”

What size sweater should I buy?

Online shopping is convenient; being able to scroll the world of retail without leaving the comforts of your sofa. A couple of clicks later and your purchase is winging its way to your doorstep. The downside to cyberspace shopping is not being able to nip into the changing room and try on a size or three. As mentioned above, the discrepancy in size from one shop to the next can be surprising, so we cannot always depend on being a standard UK size across different sites and brands. What is the solution? The best way to ensure you get the most accurate size sweater for your body is to take measurements. Most items online should include a size guide which usually includes several measurements enabling you to compare them to yours. At Humes Outfitters, we recognise how important the use of a size guide is, and therefore we measure everything in-house and publish the size guide alongside an item.

What measurements should I take and how?

We recommend measuring some precise points on a sweater you already own and one that fits you well, then comparing the measurements with a size chart to determine your size. Our recommendation is to lay the garment flat on a table or other flat surface and use a sewing measuring tape for the most accurate results.

Now let’s go over the main areas to measure and how.

Chest - with the sweater laid flat, Position the measuring tape horizontally just below the seam of the armhole on each side.

Waistline/Hem - without pulling the sweater, measure from one end to the other horizontally. You should measure where the hem begins.

Sleeve Length - lay the sleeves outstretch at an angle, so that they are straight with no bumps and place the measuring tape from the underarm seam to the tip of the cuff hem

Shoulder Width - measure from one shoulder seam end to the other

Sweater Length - to measure the length of the garment accurately, place the tape at the centre of the sweater and measure from the back collar seam to the hem. Side Note: It might also be helpful to take actual body measurements, which will help determine your size for things like shirts and trousers. It is worth asking someone help you take measurements for ease and accuracy.

Neck for shirts - measure around the base of your neck where collar would naturally sit. Place the end of the tape at the front of your neck and wrap it around until the ends meet. Make sure it is sat both tight and flat. Round up rather down.

Chest - at the widest point of your chest, wrap it around your body, feeding under your arms and making sure it stays as horizontal as possible. Pull it close but not too tight.

Natural Waist - your natural waist is the point of your torso which is the smallest, usually right above the belly button. This measurement is helpful for trousers and jeans.

Inseam - wear a pair of shoes to measure your inseam. Hold the start of the measuring tape at the top of your inner thigh at the crease and run the tape down to where the hem of the trouser would fall. As a general rule, knitwear sizing is accurate to measurement (unlike jacket sizing), people often wrongly presume that they will be the same size of knitwear and jacket, this is incorrect. Because a sweater is sized based on it's knitting measurement all you have to do is lay your sweater flat and measure it across the chest from armhole to armhole in inches and double it. E.g. a sweater measuring 21" across the chest would be a knitwear size 42". This certainly applies to British knitwear manufacturers. For the record, a jacket size can be two sizes smaller, than your knitwear size, so if you wear a 40" jacket you are likely a size 44" knitwear.

Top tip: keep your measurements handy such as written down or on photos to refer to whenever you need them.

How to style a sweater

Ok, we’ve covered how to measure up for a good fitting sweater and how to tell your sweater fits you well, now its time to explore the ways to style your sweater. Of course, personal style is subjective and rightly so. Below we will aim to merely offer some inspiration on ways to wear your sweater.

How to style a V neck sweater

V necks are one of the most popular styles of sweater. With their angled necklines showing off just the right amount of clavicle. They are a brilliant layering piece, and versatile too. The extra room around the next allow you to show your shirt collar and tie while providing a cosy extra layer. Wondering what to wear under a V neck sweater? For a slightly more casual look, a button down shirt without the tie and a pair of jeans or chinos provides a great off-duty look. Go as jazzy as you're comfortable with; from micro-prints to florals. For weekend style, a classic checked shirt pairs perfectly under a vee neck sweater especially when teamed with jeans and leather boots. To sharpen up your look, wear your V neck and shirt under a blazer. Opt for a clean lined blazer, in a block colour as not to look too busy. For women, how best do you style a vee neck sweater?

A women’s V neck sweater can be worn alone or with a button up shirt underneath. To wear over a shirt, it is best to opt for a slimmer fit sweater as to keep the shape of the shirt underneath. A shorter length sweater which allows for the hem of the shirt to show underneath can look effortlessly stylish, especially if you are able to roll the sleeves up and fold the shirt sleeves back. Textured sweaters work well for this style, including a nice cable V neck sweater.

A slightly more slouchy or oversized V neck sweater is better worn alone. The V neckline can we worn wider around the collarbone. For roomier sweaters, these are best paired with slimmer fit trousers on the bottom half. A pair of leather boots and oversized handbag offer the perfect accessories to go with this super casual style.

How to style a crew neck

Because they are universal, the crew neck sweater can be dressed up or down and are incredibly versatile. You can opt for a chunky, fisherman style crew neck as a statement on its own, especially as a winter jumper. Thinner sweaters, such as merino or cashmere, are best chosen in a slimmer fit and work best as layering pieces due to their non-obstructive nature. Perfect for wearing under a jacket or suit, they are often easier to wear in warmer months due to their thinner construction. Wondering what to wear under a crew neck? Although the space for a shirt collar is far less on a crew neck, a shirt is still a perfectly acceptable choice to wear underneath your sweater. Just make sure you are able to tuck the shirt points into the neck line. If you want to wear your favourite print shirt, opt for a solid colour sweater in a complimentary shade. If you’d prefer not to wear a shirt underneath. Wearing a T shirt will be both inconspicuous and comfortable as an under layer. Pair with casual jeans and trainers and you’ve got yourself some easy-going style. A crew neck can also be worn under a blazer or suit jacket, with or without a shirt underneath and look just as sophisticated. This is what makes them so versatile.

For women, a slimmer fit crew neck sweater works best with high waisted trousers and skirts to balance out the body. If wearing a wide leg pant or floaty skirt, going slimmer on your top half is a good way to maintain your silhouette. Equally a slim or skinny jean or body-con skirt can be balanced best with a relaxed or oversized sweater.

How to style a sweater vest/slipover

The sweater vest, a classic piece of apparel also known as a tank, a slipover, or a sleeveless sweater. Most notably associated with the style of the 70’s and its appeal although timeless can also be polarizing. More recently, the sweater vest has grown in popularity among both men and women as the ghosts of fashions past are making a resurgence. Sweater vests vary hugely in shape and design, and each style impacts how best to style them and their ‘look’. A sweater vest may include a knitted waistcoat under it's umbrella of terms - a knitted waistcoat is a sleeveless cardigan and can be styled much the same as the sweater vest, typically for less formal occassions over a shirt in place of a warmer whole garment. Wondering how to style a sweater vest? The answer is all about what to wear under a sweater vest and this all depends on the look you're hoping to achieve. Sweater vests can be paired with a white short sleeve T shirt for a trendy, youthful look or for a more classic take, a shirt and even a shirt and tie underneath. Styles can vary from fairisle knits, to cabled cricket vests and sophisticated V neck slipovers. What to wear with sweater vests is also largely about what is most practical - their aesthetic aside, sweater vests are a great way to add an extra layer of insulation over a shirt or blouse in mild to chilly weather. Wear one of our William Lockie Leven Slipovers over a classic country checked shirt. Timeless in style, they are also practical too. They keep your body temperature steady while allowing your arms more freedom of movement. This makes them a great layer to wear under a suit jacket in place of a V neck sweater especially in warmer temperatures.

How to style a sweater dress

Sweater dresses are a great alternative to trousers in the wintertime. They come in all different lengths and styles, from roll necks to bat wing designs and can be styled a number of ways. Team a sweater dress of any length with some leather boots, either with tights or alone. Shorter length sweater dresses look great with longer boots such as mid-calf or knee high, or even over the knee. An oversized sweater dress can be cinched in at the waist using a belt and look great with a pair of ankle boots. With a sweater dress, anything goes as they are such a versatile winter item. Wondering how to wear a sweater dress with ankle boots? This classic look can elevate your style while keeping you warm and comfortable. In milder climates, a midi, midaxi or maxi knitted dress can be worn with bare legs and your choice of ankle boots - be it biker boot, heeled ankle boots or leather Chelsea boots. For shorter knitted dresses above knee, opt for a pair of tights such as opaque or patterned tights.

How to style a cropped sweater

We’ve touched on cropped sweaters and their ability to balance a high waisted outfit. How long should a sweater be? Sweater length is dependent on style and the components of the rest of your outfit. A short or cropped sweater is best worn with high waisted trousers or jeans or a slip skirt, whenever what you are wearing on your bottom half is the main feature. A long length sweater or sweater dress works great with leggings, skinny jeans, or tights where you wish to accentuate the top half instead.

To conclude our sweater style guide

To wrap up this sweater style guide, we have tried to showcase the best ways to both choose and wear your sweaters. Once you’ve found a great fitting sweater, you’ll feel for yourself the difference it makes and be able to incorporate this into your personal style. Remember, the power of clothing is its ability to make you feel confident as you step out into the world, what that looks like to you is completely your choice. We are just here to offer some guidance to help you find it. To speak to our friendly customer service team on sweaters or all things country, please call 01573 224 620.

Browse our range of sweaters and knitwear or if you enjoyed this post and found it helpful, please 'like' and 'share' using the social buttons. Thank you.